-== Bernie's brain backup of April 2009 ==
+== Bernie's brain dump as of April 2009 ==
-=== Aplil 24th -- over 1 megameter by train ====
+=== April 29th: Back to Tokyo ===
+
+=== April 28th ===
+
+==== Guided tour ====
+
+Pictures of our day-long [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nikko/waterfalls_tour]] are now online.
+Our friendly guide, the Buddhist monk whose name I forgot, answered many of our pending questions
+about Japanese traditions and religion. Hiking through these sacred mountains and woods was an
+enjoyable experience.
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nikko/waterfalls_tour/00038.jpg|maxwidth=800|The Yutaki Waterfalls}}
+
+TODO: assemble a good video from all the scenes I took along the way
+
+==== Nikko Temple Area ====
+In the afternoon, we went to visit the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nikko/world_heritage_site]].
+One would expect to grow bored of Shinto and Buddhist temples after seeing many of them
+all over Japan, but visiting the Nikko temple area was once again an extraordinary experience.
+And I could finally spot a few [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miko]]s too!
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nikko/world_heritage_site/00096.jpg|maxwidth=800}}
+
+=== April 27th ===
+
+==== Afternoon: travel to Nikko ====
+
+Nikko is in an adjacent valley east of Nagano on the Japanese alps. Unfortunately, no train lines
+and busses connect them directly, so we had to take an expensive -- yet very fast -- Shinkansen
+detour all the way down to Saitama and then up again.
+
+Once at the station, we immediately realized it was a good deal, after all.
+This mountain town overflows with temples, world heritage sites and statues of Buddah
+spread in an extremely beautiful natural environment with many great falls, ancient woods
+and hot springs where even wild monkeys take an onsen.
+
+Our [[http://www.nikkoparklodge.com/|hostel]] is ran by Zen monks and serves an unforgettable
+vegan dinner with seit. In the evening, we exchanged excited stories with a family of Italian tourists from Milan who had
+chosen to travel by car rather than by train to save money and gather access to places unreachable
+by public transport. Quite a smart idea for groups of 3-4 people who aren't afraid of driving
+on the left.
+
+Surprisingly, one of the monks speaks perfect English. He told us that he lived in California
+for some time. An explanation worthy of the plot of a very bad 007 movie, where locals
+always happen to speak English somehow, saving James from the embarrassing need of resorting
+to silly gestures in order to get his stupid Vodka Martini the way he likes it.
+
+Tomorrow, of course after our morning yoga and vegan breakfast, we're going on a day long
+guided hiking tour with the monks, which sounds really cool.
+
+**UPDATE**: ouch!
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nikko/00026.jpg|Ouch!|maxwidth=640}}
+
+==== Morning: Zenko-ji ====
+
+In the morning, we tried again to visit the [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenk%C5%8D-ji|Zenko-ji]].
+Even on a Monday, the queue was not much shorter. A nice volunteer guide advised us that
+the pilgrims where queuing just to touch a wooden pole with an inscription on it that was
+right in front of the temple, and we could skip aside if we weren't interested. So we did.
+
+We still had to queue for half an hour inside the temple to reach the secret chamber where
+we would get the rare opportunity to see the hidden Buddha, visible only once every seven
+years. Quite a lucky combination! I was impressed by the devotion of the people around me.
+The spiritual side of Japanese people does not seem to clash at all with their high-tech lifestyle.
+
+Behind the temple, we were led down a narrow staircase to a dark and twisty corridor beneath
+the temple. We had to walk in the pitch black obscurity, touching the walls in search of a
+metal key of enlightenment. I could finally get hold of the key and turn it, but the most
+enlightening part of this experience was hearing the crowd of tourists apologizing for bumping
+into each other all the time ;-)
+
+I only have outdoors [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/Zenko-ji|photos]] becuase taking
+pictures inside was strictly forbidden. A monk yelled at me just for fiddling too much with
+my camera, which was quite surprising, considering how tolerant Japanese people usually are
+towards our ignorance of their culture.
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/Zenko-ji/00186.jpg|The sacred inscription we can't read, let alone understand|maxwidth=800}}
+
+=== April 26th: Matsumoto again ===
+
+==== Back to Matsumoto ====
+
+Our [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/Shimizuya_Ryokan|ryokan in Nagano]] was simply great.
+Everything was traditional Japanese-style, including the room, the onsen and the breakfast.
+
+We tried to visit the [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenk%C5%8D-ji|Zenko-ji]] right next to our
+ryokan, but we spotted a really long queue of pilgrims at the entrance, so we went back to the
+station to visit the [[http://localhost/wiki/Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Castle|Matsumoto Castle]],
+one of Japan's top 3 castles ([[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Castle|photos]]). The adjacent
+museum was also great ([[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Museum|photos]]). On our way back, we've found
+a peculiar [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/dancing_kids|dancing show]] with cute little girls and their
+teachers.
+
+Apparently, by leaving Nagano we missed some kind of prayer or event held by Tibetan monks at the
+[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenk%C5%8D-ji|Zenko-ji]]. Too bad, it might have been a good chance
+to show some support for the Tibetan cause. Go, Tibet, Go!!
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Castle/00147.jpg|Soooo conventiinal!|maxwidth=640}}
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Castle/00108.jpg|Scary, uh?|maxwidth=640}}
+
+=== April 25th: Matsumoto ===
+
+Yesterday, we arrived on a rainy night to the mountain town of Matsumoto, where a lady with a car
+took us from the station to a cozy [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/family_hostel|family held hostell]].
+The next day was rainy, so instead of going right to the famous [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matsumoto_Castle|Matsumoto Castle]],
+we spent the best part of the day at the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Station|station]] and
+with some dumb [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Shopping|shopping]].
+
+In the evening, we headed to [[http://wikitravel.org/en/Nagano|Nagano]], a city famous for the
+1998 winter olimpics and for an ancient [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenk%C5%8D-ji|buddhist temple]].
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/Shimizuya_Ryokan/00053.jpg|All sorts of accommodations come with good wi-fi, including traditional ryokans|maxwidth=800}}
+
+=== April 24th -- over 1 [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Megametre|megameter]] by train ====
+
+**UPDATE**: the report for [[blog/2009/April#kyoto-higashiyama|April 21st]] is now available!
We left our comfortable hostel in Kyoto early in the morning for a second Shinkansen
ride of 360Km, this time on the faster [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nozomi_%28train%29|Nozomi]].
Shinkansen for another 690Km ride to another location which will be revealed
in due time. Don't miss the next amazing episode of Bernie's Adventures!
-{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hiroshima/00079.jpg|"Peace" written with origami cranes|maxwidth=480}}
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hiroshima/00079.jpg|"Peace" written with origami cranes|maxwidth=640}}
Also check the story behind the [[http://www.city.hiroshima.jp/shimin/heiwa/crane.html|millions of paper cranes]]
sent from all over the world in memory of the little Sadako.
-=== April 23rd -- Kyoto last day ===
+=== April 23rd -- Last day in Kyoto ===
-==== Morking: Arashiyama by bike ====
+==== Morning: Arashiyama by bike ====
In the morning of this sunny day, we biked to a few locations on the
east side of Kyoto:
* [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Tenryuji|Tenryuji]], another beautiful Buddhist temple with a beautiful Zen garden, next to a bamboo forest
* [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Monkey_Park|Monkey Park]], a place where you can closely observe and interact with [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macaque|Japanese macaques]].
-{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Monkey_Park/00028.jpg|see no evil, hear no evil, speak no English|maxwidth=800]]
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Monkey_Park/00028.jpg|see no evil, hear no evil, speak no English|maxwidth=800}}
==== Evening: a city I did not like ====
=== April 22nd ===
-==== Kyoto day 2 ====
+==== Kyoto Higashiyama ====
+
+Today we walked along the east side of Kyoto, north to south:
+
+ * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Ginkakuji|Ginkakuji]] -- rock garden with a view point;
+ * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Eikando|Eikando]] ([[http://www.eikando.or.jp/English/index_eng.htm|home page]]) -- an active Buddhist temple
+ * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Chion-in|Chion-in]] -- huge temple with the largest bell in Japan
+ * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Sennen-zaka|Sennen-zaka]] -- a trendy touristic way with maikos (aka geishas);
+ * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Jishu-jinja|Jishu-jinja]] -- a temple hanging on a cliff with an impressive scaffolding;
+ * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Fushimiinari-taisha|Fushimiinari-taisha]] -- The multi-torii tunnel. My #1 favorite shrine!!!
-TODO: missing links to photos
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Chion-in/00056.jpg|The huge bell of Chion-in|maxwidth=800}}
==== Food ====