Edit page blog/2009/April

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== Bernie's brain dump as of April 2009 ==

=== April 27th ===

==== Afternoon: travel to Nikko ====

Nikko is in an adjacent valley east of Nagano on the Japanese alps.  Unfortunately, no train lines
and busses connect them directly, so we had to take an expensive -- yet very fast -- Shinkansen
detour all the way down to Saitama and then up again.

Once at the station, we immediately realized it was a good deal, after all.
This mountain town overflows with temples, world heritage sites and statues of Buddah
spread in an extremely beautiful natural environment with many great falls, ancient woods
and hot springs where even wild monkeys take an onsen.

Our [[http://www.nikkoparklodge.com/|hostel]] is ran by Zen monks and serves an unforgettable
vegan dinner with seit.  In the evening, we exchanged excited stories with a family of Italian tourists from Milan who had
chosen to travel by car rather than by train to save money and gather access to places unreachable
by public transport.  Quite a smart idea for groups of 3-4 people who aren't afraid of driving
on the left.

Surprisingly, one of the monks speaks perfect English.  He told us that he lived in California
for some time.  An explanation worthy of the plot of a very bad 007 movie, where locals
always happen to speak English somehow, saving James from the embarrassing need of resorting
to silly gestures in order to get his stupid Vodka Martini the way he likes it.

Tomorrow, of course after our morning yoga and vegan breakfast, we're going on a day long
guided hiking tour with the monks, which sounds really cool.


==== Morning: Zenko-ji ====

In the morning, we tried again to visit the [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenk%C5%8D-ji]].
Even on a Monday, the queue was not much shorter.  A nice volunteer guide advised us that
the pilgrims where queuing just to touch a wooden pole with an inscription on it that was
right in front of the temple, and we could skip aside if we weren't interested.  So we did.

We still had to queue for half an hour inside the temple to reach the secret chamber where
we would get the rare opportunity to see the hidden Buddha, visible only once every seven
years.  Quite a lucky combination!  I was impressed by the devotion of the people around me.
The spiritual side of Japanese people does not seem to clash at all with their high-tech lifestyle.

Behind the temple, we were led down a narrow staircase to a dark and twisty corridor beneath
the temple.  We had to walk in the pitch black obscurity, touching the walls in search of a
metal key of enlightenment.  I could finally get hold of the key and turn it, but the most
enlightening part of this experience was hearing the crowd of tourists apologizing for bumping
into each other all the time ;-)

I only have outdoors [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/Zenko-ji|photos]] becuase taking
pictures inside was strictly forbidden.  A monk yelled at me just for fiddling too much with
my camera, which was quite surprising, considering how tolerant Japanese people usually are
towards our ignorance of their culture.

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/Zenko-ji/00186.jpg|The sacred inscription we can't read, let alone understand|maxwidth=800}}

=== April 26th: Matsumoto again ===

==== Back to Matsumoto ====

Our [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/Shimizuya_Ryokan|ryokan in Nagano]] was simply great.
Everything was traditional Japanese-style, including the room, the onsen and the breakfast.

We tried to visit the [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenk%C5%8D-ji|Zenko-ji]] right next to our
ryokan, but we spotted a really long queue of pilgrims at the entrance, so we went back to the
station to visit the [[http://localhost/wiki/Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Castle|Matsumoto Castle]],
one of Japan's top 3 castles ([[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Castle|photos]]).  The adjacent
museum was also great ([[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Museum|photos]]).  On our way back, we've found
a peculiar [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/dancing_kids|dancing show]] with cute little girls and their
teachers.

Apparently, by leaving Nagano we missed some kind of prayer or event held by Tibetan monks at the
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenk%C5%8D-ji|Zenko-ji]].  Too bad, it might have been a good chance
to show some support for the Tibetan cause.  Go, Tibet, Go!!

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Castle/00147.jpg|Soooo conventiinal!|maxwidth=640}}
{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Castle/00108.jpg|Scary, uh?|maxwidth=640}}

=== April 25th: Matsumoto ===

Yesterday, we arrived on a rainy night to the mountain town of Matsumoto, where a lady with a car
took us from the station to a cozy [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/family_hostel|family held hostell]].
The next day was rainy, so instead of going right to the famous [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matsumoto_Castle|Matsumoto Castle]],
we spent the best part of the day at the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Station|station]] and
with some dumb [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Shopping|shopping]].

In the evening, we headed to [[http://wikitravel.org/en/Nagano|Nagano]], a city famous for the
1998 winter olimpics and for an ancient [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenk%C5%8D-ji|buddhist temple]].

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/Shimizuya_Ryokan/00053.jpg|All sorts of accommodations come with good wi-fi, including traditional ryokans|maxwidth=800}}

=== April 24th -- over 1 [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Megametre|megameter]] by train ====

**UPDATE**: the report for [[blog/2009/April#kyoto-higashiyama|April 21st]] is now available!

We left our comfortable hostel in Kyoto early in the morning for a second Shinkansen
ride of 360Km, this time on the faster [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nozomi_%28train%29|Nozomi]].
The one-way ticket was "just" 10,250円, equivalent to $105 or €80.

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hiroshima/00085.jpg|The A-Bomb peace memorial near the epicenter|maxwidth=480}}

Unlike Kyoto, there aren't many sites of historic interest in Hiroshima because, quite
unsurprisingly, every building in the city center is at most 64 years old.
With [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hiroshima_Peace_Memorial|one notable exception]].
Coming such a long way only to see a broken dome and a the surrounding
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hiroshima_Peace_Memorial_Park|park]] might seem crazy,
but it was definitely worth it.  One of the most dramatic moments of human history
happened right here not long ago, and survivors of about my father's age can give
their first-hand testimony with the help of black and white photographs and melted
items from the museum.  After causing so much horror and observing its consequences,
what did we do about it?  We quickly built **thousands** of bombs much more
destructive than [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Little_Boy|Little Boy]].  Smart move.

As usual, I couldn't refrain from taking [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hiroshima|a load of photos]] here too.
These probably can't deliver the pain in the chest one gets by visiting the museum,
but might still be a little disturbing.

In the afternoon, we returned to the Hiroshima station just in time to catch the 16:01
Shinkansen for another 690Km ride to another location which will be revealed
in due time.  Don't miss the next amazing episode of Bernie's Adventures!

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hiroshima/00079.jpg|"Peace" written with origami cranes|maxwidth=640}}

Also check the story behind the [[http://www.city.hiroshima.jp/shimin/heiwa/crane.html|millions of paper cranes]]
sent from all over the world in memory of the little Sadako.

=== April 23rd -- Last day in Kyoto ===

==== Morning: Arashiyama by bike ====

In the morning of this sunny day, we biked to a few locations on the
east side of Kyoto:

 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Dakakuji|Dakakuji]], an active Shingon Buddhist temple
 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Tenryuji|Tenryuji]], another beautiful Buddhist temple with a beautiful Zen garden, next to a bamboo forest
 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Monkey_Park|Monkey Park]], a place where you can closely observe and interact with [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macaque|Japanese macaques]].

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Monkey_Park/00028.jpg|see no evil, hear no evil, speak no English|maxwidth=800}}

==== Evening: a city I did not like ====

At last, I've found a place I actually didn't like much in Japan!
The first impression of Osaka's central station was that it was old and
dirty.  Of course one could still eat on the floor, and coming from
[[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Shin_Kyoto|Kyoto's station]] might
have compromised my judgement.  There was big crowd of busy people
everywhere, and if //you// bump into someone, //they// don't apologize
for it.

Our copy of the Lonely Planet highly recommended [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D%C5%8Dtonbori|Dotonbori]]
at night for its "Blade Runner views", so we headed there.  They must have watched
a version of the movie with bad special fx, because all I could observe in
Dotonbori was a narrow street sided by neon signs of restaurants and pachinkos.
Just above average, imho, and certainly not worth the time and the price of the
train ticket.  Unless you're a moth, perhaps.

{{http://www.codewiz.org/wiki/Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Osaka/00003.jpg|The Osaka central station|maxwidth=800}}

We granted our guide a second chance and choosing their highest rated
restaurant in Dotombori, one specialized in [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Udon|udon]].
There was no English menu and the only food I could order was a chest of cold
spaghetti on a bamboo crate with no sauce but a cup of soy sauce, also cold of course,
in which one could dip them separately.  Or so I understood: the waiters were extremely
kind but wouldn't speak English, which created even more confusion.  //Dulcis in fundo//,
the bill was much higher than usual and they wouldn't take credit cards.

We rushed back to the metro to Shin-Osaka, JR train to Kyoto, local train to 
Arashiyama, where our bikes were still waiting for us for the ride back home.


=== April 22nd ===

==== Kyoto Higashiyama ====

Today we walked along the east side of Kyoto, north to south:

 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Ginkakuji|Ginkakuji]] -- rock garden with a view point;
 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Eikando|Eikando]] ([[http://www.eikando.or.jp/English/index_eng.htm|home page]]) -- an active Buddhist temple
 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Chion-in|Chion-in]] -- huge temple with the largest bell in Japan
 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Sennen-zaka|Sennen-zaka]] -- a trendy touristic way with maikos (aka geishas);
 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Jishu-jinja|Jishu-jinja]] -- a temple hanging on a cliff with an impressive scaffolding;
 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Fushimiinari-taisha|Fushimiinari-taisha]] -- The multi-torii tunnel.  My #1 favorite shrine!!!

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Chion-in/00056.jpg|The huge bell of Chion-in|maxwidth=800}}

==== Food ====

Eating in japan can a challenge for a vegetarian who also happens to dislike fish and crustaceans.
The average menu has about 5% of veggie dishes, but many restaurants in tourist areas specialize
in traditional food such as [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sushi|sushi]] and
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempura|tempura]].  Imitations of Italian kitchen are close to
perfection, of course: in Tokyo, we had perfectly reasonable spaghetti with eggplants.

Even with my options severely limited, I could still find several exquisite dishes.
I quite like soups, including [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miso_soup|miso shiru]],
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramen|ramen]] and others I ordered by pointing at the
fake dish in the restaurant window without ever knowing their name.

My favorite food so far is [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omurice|Omurice]].  Yeah, perhaps
it's not as sophisticated as the average Japanese recipe.  Hmm... I guess learning to
appreciate complex and delicate flavors takes some more time.

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Ryoanji/00016.jpg|Omurice = omelet + rice|maxwidth=640}}

As for beer, I still couldn't find one I like.  The most popular ones, Asahi and Kirin,
are just tasteless dry lagers.  All the drafts I could find taste like Asahi too.  The
only good beers I had were at the [[http://www.deliriumcafe.jp/|Delirium Cafe]] in Tokyo,
where I had a delicious [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pauwel_Kwak|Kwak]] followed by a
cherry flavored [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kriek|Kriek]].  Too bad we had to stop at
just two to make sure we could find the way back to the hostel :-)

Now I'm looking for a place where I could taste vegetarian [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sukiyaki|sukiyaki]],
the favorite food of [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ataru_Moroboshi#Ataru_Moroboshi|Ataru Moroboshi]].

=== April 21st ====

==== Great temples everywhere ====

Yesterday was rainy, but it didn't stop us from biking around and visiting quite a lot of stuff:

 * the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Ninnaji|Ninnaji temple]];
 * the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Ryoanji|Ryoanji temple]], with its puzzling rock zen garden;
 * the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Kinkakuji|Kinkakuji temple]] (aka golden temple);
 * the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Nijojo_Castle|Nijojo castle]], which is actually two castles for the price of one;
 * a quick tour of the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Kyoto_downtown|Kyoto downtown]];
 * the [[http://www.kyotomm.com/international/english/|International Manga Museum]] was closed already.  Grrr....

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Kinkakuji/00012.jpg|the golden temple of Kinkakuji|maxwidth=800}}

==== x264 goodness ====

I re-encoded all videos from MJPEG, the crappy native format of my Canon camera, to x264 (aka MPEG4).
Firefox 3.1/3.5 still doesn't grok it with the ##video## tag, but I didn't have a
[[http://theora.org/|Theora]] encoder installed.

=== April 20th ===

==== Best hostel ever ====

The [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Utano_Hostel|Utano hostel]] in Kyoto would rival many
five star hotels I've seen.  Sorry I couldn't take any photos in the [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Onsen | Onsen]].

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Utano_Hostel/00005.jpg|the hostel provides a traditional goan too|maxwidth=800}}

==== Impressive station ====

The [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Shin_Kyoto|Kyoto station]] is an impressive modern building,
worth a visit by itself.

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Shin_Kyoto/00015.jpg|Anime characters by Osamu Tezuka|maxwidth=640}}

==== Shinkansen tour ====

In a jounery report, the details of transportation are usually left out as uninteresting.
Except if one takes the fastest train in the world!  We took the
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T%C5%8Dkaid%C5%8D_Shinkansen|Tokaido Shinkansen]] line from Odawara to Kyoto,
riding on a [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/700_Series_Shinkansen|700-series]] train for the
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hikari_%28Shinkansen%29|Hikari]] service (not the faster
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nozomi_%28train%29|Nozomi]], but still very impressive).

The ticket cost a whopping 11240 yen per person, and I'm not even getting a
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galaxy_Express_999|machine body]] with it! ;-)

See [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Shinkansen|the the photos]] and don't miss the
[[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Shinkansen/00009-x264.avi|pass-through]] and the
[[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Shinkansen/00011-x264.avi|on-board]] videos.

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Shinkansen/00006.jpg|Shinkansen|maxwidth=800}}


=== April 19th - Hakone day 2 ===

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hakone/FujiSanBernieSan.jpg|The Fuji-san (left) with Bernie-san (right)|maxwidth=1024}}

We took the suggested touristic itinerary around the Hakone mountains which employs all sorts
of transportation means: bus, cable train, rope way, cruise boat and bus again.

Along the way, we could see the volcanic sulfuric vents and pools, the Ashi lake with its breathtaking
view of the Fuji-san, the ancient cedar avenue, the old post, the detached palace gardens and the
beautiful [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shinto_shrine|shinto jinja shrine]] of with its
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torii|torii]] diving in the lake.

Of course, I took plenty of [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hakone/Trip|photos of the Hakone trip]].

=== April 18th - Hakone ===

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hakone/Hostel/00008.jpg|Our japanese style room at the Senkyoro YH|maxwidth=1024}}

We arrived in a small town near [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hakone,_Kanagawa|Hakone]].  I'll publish photos later.

**Update**: [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hakone|photos of the hostel]] are now available.


=== April 17th - Ghibli museum in Mitaka, Ginza ===

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/GhibliMuseum/00005.jpg|Robot from the ancient city of Laputa|maxwidth=800}}

The museum was actually a bit of a disappointment, but maybe just because I had my expectations so high.
Cameras weren't allowed inside, so I only took [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/GhibliMuseum|few photos]].

In the afternoon, we walked around the shiny neighborhood of [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ginza|Ginza]].
See the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Ginza|photos]].

=== April 16th - Fish Market, Gardens, Tower of Tokyo, Temple ===

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Tsukiji_Fish_Market/00013.jpg | Tsukiji Fish Market |maxwidth=800}}

We had a very intense day where we visited a lot of places all around central Tokyo:

 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Tsukiji_Fish_Market | Tsukiji Fish Market]] ([[http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3021.html|Japan Guide]])
 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Hama_Rikyu_Gardens | Hama Rikyu Gardens]] ([[http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3025.html||Japan Guide]])
 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Zojoji | Zojo-ji Temple]] ([[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zojoji|Wikipedia]])
 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Tokyo_Tower | Tokyo Tower]] ([[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tokyo_Tower|Wikipedia]])
 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Reiyukai_Temple | Reiyukai Temple]] ([[http://www.reiyukai.org/|official web site]])
 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Imperial_Palace_Gardens | Imperial Palace Gardens]] ([[http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3017.html|Japan Guide]])
 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Edo_Museum | Edo-Tokyo Museum]], which was already closed.
 We'll try again when we come back to Tokyo ([[http://www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp/english | official web site]])

NOTE: photos still being uploaded, gomen nasai!

Seeing so many beautiful things at such a high frequency might make one's head spin.
In fact, this evening I've been dangerously close to faint in an [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Onsen | Onsen]],
which was really scary because I had never lost consciousness before.  I had walked all day with very little
food and drink, which might have been part of the problem, but diving in thermal water for a long time has
certainly triggered it.  What a [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaijin | gaijin]] who can't even take some
hot water!

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Zojoji/1.00011.jpg | Zojo-ji temple (left), Tokyo Tower (center), Bernie (right) |maxwidth=800}}

=== April 15th - Skyscrapers everywhere ===

Compared to Tokyo, every other city I had visited would seem dirty, old, boring and disorganized.
I can't find the words to describe my amazement walking around this amazing city full of wonders.

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Roppongi/TokyoMidtown/00023.jpg|Tokyo Midtown Gardenside seen from the Galleria building|maxwidth=800}}

Photos for today:
 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Shinjuku|Shinju-ku]] -- The district of the [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tokyo_Metropolitan_Government_Building|Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building]].
 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Roppongi|Roppongi]] -- A rich district hosting modern art museums (Art Triangle) and night life ([[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roppongi|Wikipedia]])
 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Pachinko|Pachinko]] -- Popular Japanese slot machines

**Update**: now finished uploading the photos

=== April 14th - Arrival in Tokyo ===

{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Sensoji_Temple/00081.jpg|The way to the Sensoji temple in Asakusa|maxwidth=800}}

I couldn't resist grabbing a super-cheap round trip to japan, a place I've always wanted
to visit.  By "always", I mean: since when I was in kindergarten, watching great series
like [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steel_Jeeg|SteelJeeg]] and [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazinger_Z|MazingerZ]] on TV.
My dad accepted to accompany me in this trip even though he wasn't particularly fond of Japan. Until now, that is!

The first day was simply amazing, but I'm way to tired to tell a lot about it.
The [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo|many photos and videos]] that I'm still uploading will hopefully serve
documenting this long day appropriately.

NOTE: if you can't watch the videos embedded in the wiki, get yourself a recent browser featuring HTML5 or
send me a patch adding support for old-style HTML video embedding.

=== Negligent ===

Yes, I've neglected to update this blog for a few months.  This isn't because I had nothing
to talk about.  In fact, these months were quite intense, with a lot of notable events, including:

 * 2009 Jan: Visited the [[Pictures/vacation/EastCoast2008|East Coast]] with Silvia
 * 2009 Jan: Attended the [[Pictures/conf/XOCamp2009|XO Camp 2]]
 * 2009 Feb: Attended the [[Pictures/conf/Fosdem2009|Fosdem 2009]] with a few friends from Italy and SugarLabs colleagues
 * 2009 Feb: Visited
 [[Pictures/vacation/brussels_riga_stokholm_2009/Brussels | Brussels]],
 [[Pictures/vacation/brussels_riga_stokholm_2009/Riga | Riga]] and
 [[Pictures/vacation/brussels_riga_stokholm_2009 | Stockholm]] with Tommaso
 * 2009 Mar: Organized a small revival of [[SystemShockBBS]] with a few original users
 * 2009 Apr: Attended a meeting/miniconf in [[Pictures/conf/Bolzano2009|Bolzano]] with WalterBender

I am currently back in Florence, trying to find a way back in the US.