1 == Bernie's brain dump as of April 2009 ==
5 ==== Afternoon: travel to Nikko ====
7 Nikko is in an adjacent valley east of Nagano on the Japanese alps. Unfortunately, no train lines
8 and busses connect them directly, so we had to take an expensive -- yet very fast -- Shinkansen
9 detour all the way down to Saitama and then up again.
11 Once at the station, we immediately realized that our was a good investment, after all.
12 This mountain town overflows with temples, world heritage sites and statues of Buddah
13 spread in an extremely beautiful natural environment with many great falls, ancient woods
14 and hot springs where even wild monkeys take an onsen.
16 Our [[http://www.nikkoparklodge.com/|hostel]] is ran by Zen monks and serves an unforgettable
17 vegan dinner with seit. In the evening, we exchanged excited stories with a family of Italian tourists from Milan who had
18 chosen to travel by car rather than by train to save money and gather access to places unreachable
19 by public transport. Quite a smart idea for groups of 3-4 people who aren't afraid of driving
22 Surprisingly, one of the monks speaks perfect English. He told us that he lived in California
23 for some time. An explanation worthy of the plot of a very bad 007 movie, where locals
24 always happen to speak English somehow, saving James from the embarrassing need of resorting
25 to silly gestures in order to get his stupid Vodka Martini the way he likes it.
27 Tomorrow, of course after our morning yoga and vegan breakfast, we're going on a day long
28 guided hiking tour with the monks, which sounds really cool.
31 ==== Morning: Zenko-ji ====
33 In the morning, we tried again to visit the [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenk%C5%8D-ji]].
34 Even on a Monday, the queue was not much shorter. A nice volunteer guide advised us that
35 the pilgrims where queuing just to touch a wooden pole with an inscription on it that was
36 right in front of the temple, and we could skip aside if we weren't interested. So we did.
38 We still had to queue for half an hour inside the temple to reach the secret chamber where
39 we would get the rare opportunity to see the hidden Buddha, visible only once every seven
40 years. Quite a lucky combination! I was impressed by the devotion of the people around me.
41 The spiritual side of Japanese people does not seem to clash at all with their high-tech lifestyle.
43 Behind the temple, we were led down a narrow staircase to a dark and twisty corridor beneath
44 the temple. We had to walk in the pitch black obscurity, touching the walls in search of a
45 metal key of enlightenment. I could finally get hold of the key and turn it, but the most
46 enlightening part of this experience was hearing the crowd of tourists apologizing for bumping
47 into each other all the time ;-)
49 I only have outdoors [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/Zenko-ji|photos]] becuase taking
50 pictures inside was strictly forbidden. A monk yelled at me just for fiddling too much with
51 my camera, which was quite surprising, considering how tolerant Japanese people usually are
52 towards our ignorance of their culture.
54 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/Zenko-ji/00186.jpg|The sacred inscription we can't read, let alone understand|maxwidth=800}}
56 === April 26th: Matsumoto again ===
58 ==== Back to Matsumoto ====
60 Our [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/Shimizuya_Ryokan|ryokan in Nagano]] was simply great.
61 Everything was traditional Japanese-style, including the room, the onsen and the breakfast.
63 We tried to visit the [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenk%C5%8D-ji|Zenko-ji]] right next to our
64 ryokan, but we spotted a really long queue of pilgrims at the entrance, so we went back to the
65 station to visit the [[http://localhost/wiki/Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Castle|Matsumoto Castle]],
66 one of Japan's top 3 castles ([[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Castle|photos]]). The adjacent
67 museum was also great ([[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Museum|photos]]). On our way back, we did see
68 a [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/dancing_kids|dancing show]] with cute little girls and their teachers.
70 Apparently, by leaving Nagano we missed some kind of prayer or event held by Tibetan monks at the
71 [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenk%C5%8D-ji|Zenko-ji]]. Too bad, it might have been a good chance
72 to show some support for the Tibetan cause. Go, Tibet, Go!
74 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Castle/00147.jpg|Soooo conventiinal!|maxwidth=640}}
75 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Castle/00108.jpg|Scary, uh?|maxwidth=640}}
77 === April 25th: Matsumoto ===
79 Yesterday, we arrived on a rainy night to the mountain town of Matsumoto, where a lady with a car
80 took us from the station to a cozy [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/family_hostel|family held hostell]].
81 The next day was rainy, so instead of going right to the famous [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matsumoto_Castle|Matsumoto Castle]],
82 we spent the best part of the day at the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Station|station]] and
83 with some dumb [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Shopping|shopping]].
85 In the evening, we headed to [[http://wikitravel.org/en/Nagano|Nagano]], a city famous for the
86 1998 winter olimpics and for an ancient [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenk%C5%8D-ji|buddhist temple]].
88 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/Shimizuya_Ryokan/00053.jpg|All sorts of accommodations come with good wi-fi, including traditional ryokans|maxwidth=800}}
90 **UPDATE**: the report for [[blog/2009/April#kyoto-higashiyama|April 21st]] is now available!
92 === April 24th -- over 1 [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Megametre|megameter]] by train ====
94 We left our comfortable hostel in Kyoto early in the morning for a second Shinkansen
95 ride of 360Km, this time on the faster [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nozomi_%28train%29|Nozomi]].
96 The one-way ticket was "just" 10,250円, equivalent to $105 or €80.
98 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hiroshima/00085.jpg|The A-Bomb peace memorial near the epicenter|maxwidth=480}}
100 Unlike Kyoto, there aren't many sites of historic interest in Hiroshima because, quite
101 unsurprisingly, every building in the city center is at most 64 years old.
102 With [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hiroshima_Peace_Memorial|one notable exception]].
103 Coming such a long way only to see a broken dome and a the surrounding
104 [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hiroshima_Peace_Memorial_Park|park]] might seem crazy,
105 but it was definitely worth it. One of the most dramatic moments of human history
106 happened right here not long ago, and survivors of about my father's age can give
107 their first-hand testimony with the help of black and white photographs and melted
108 items from the museum. After causing so much horror and observing its consequences,
109 what did we do about it? We quickly built **thousands** of bombs much more
110 destructive than [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Little_Boy|Little Boy]]. Smart move.
112 As usual, I couldn't refrain from taking [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hiroshima|a load of photos]] here too.
113 These probably can't deliver the pain in the chest one gets by visiting the museum,
114 but might still be a little disturbing.
116 In the afternoon, we returned to the Hiroshima station just in time to catch the 16:01
117 Shinkansen for another 690Km ride to another location which will be revealed
118 in due time. Don't miss the next amazing episode of Bernie's Adventures!
120 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hiroshima/00079.jpg|"Peace" written with origami cranes|maxwidth=640}}
122 Also check the story behind the [[http://www.city.hiroshima.jp/shimin/heiwa/crane.html|millions of paper cranes]]
123 sent from all over the world in memory of the little Sadako.
125 === April 23rd -- Last day in Kyoto ===
127 ==== Morning: Arashiyama by bike ====
129 In the morning of this sunny day, we biked to a few locations on the
132 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Dakakuji|Dakakuji]], an active Shingon Buddhist temple
133 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Tenryuji|Tenryuji]], another beautiful Buddhist temple with a beautiful Zen garden, next to a bamboo forest
134 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Monkey_Park|Monkey Park]], a place where you can closely observe and interact with [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macaque|Japanese macaques]].
136 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Monkey_Park/00028.jpg|see no evil, hear no evil, speak no English|maxwidth=800}}
138 ==== Evening: a city I did not like ====
140 At last, I've found a place I actually didn't like much in Japan!
141 The first impression of Osaka's central station was that it was old and
142 dirty. Of course one could still eat on the floor, and coming from
143 [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Shin_Kyoto|Kyoto's station]] might
144 have compromised my judgement. There was big crowd of busy people
145 everywhere, and if //you// bump into someone, //they// don't apologize
148 Our copy of the Lonely Planet highly recommended [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D%C5%8Dtonbori|Dotonbori]]
149 at night for its "Blade Runner views", so we headed there. They must have watched
150 a version of the movie with bad special fx, because all I could observe in
151 Dotonbori was a narrow street sided by neon signs of restaurants and pachinkos.
152 Just above average, imho, and certainly not worth the time and the price of the
153 train ticket. Unless you're a moth, perhaps.
155 {{http://www.codewiz.org/wiki/Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Osaka/00003.jpg|The Osaka central station|maxwidth=800}}
157 We granted our guide a second chance and choosing their highest rated
158 restaurant in Dotombori, one specialized in [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Udon|udon]].
159 There was no English menu and the only food I could order was a chest of cold
160 spaghetti on a bamboo crate with no sauce but a cup of soy sauce, also cold of course,
161 in which one could dip them separately. Or so I understood: the waiters were extremely
162 kind but wouldn't speak English, which created even more confusion. //Dulcis in fundo//,
163 the bill was much higher than usual and they wouldn't take credit cards.
165 We rushed back to the metro to Shin-Osaka, JR train to Kyoto, local train to
166 Arashiyama, where our bikes were still waiting for us for the ride back home.
171 ==== Kyoto Higashiyama ====
173 Today we walked along the east side of Kyoto, north to south:
175 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Ginkakuji|Ginkakuji]] -- rock garden with a view point;
176 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Eikando|Eikando]] ([[http://www.eikando.or.jp/English/index_eng.htm|home page]]) -- an active Buddhist temple
177 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Chion-in|Chion-in]] -- huge temple with the largest bell in Japan
178 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Sennen-zaka|Sennen-zaka]] -- a trendy touristic way with maikos (aka geishas);
179 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Jishu-jinja|Jishu-jinja]] -- a temple hanging on a cliff with an impressive scaffolding;
180 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Fushimiinari-taisha|Fushimiinari-taisha]] -- The multi-torii tunnel. My #1 favorite shrine!!!
182 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Chion-in/00056.jpg|The huge bell of Chion-in|maxwidth=800}}
186 Eating in japan can a challenge for a vegetarian who also happens to dislike fish and crustaceans.
187 The average menu has about 5% of veggie dishes, but many restaurants in tourist areas specialize
188 in traditional food such as [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sushi|sushi]] and
189 [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempura|tempura]]. Imitations of Italian kitchen are close to
190 perfection, of course: in Tokyo, we had perfectly reasonable spaghetti with eggplants.
192 Even with my options severely limited, I could still find several exquisite dishes.
193 I quite like soups, including [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miso_soup|miso shiru]],
194 [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramen|ramen]] and others I ordered by pointing at the
195 fake dish in the restaurant window without ever knowing their name.
197 My favorite food so far is [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omurice|Omurice]]. Yeah, perhaps
198 it's not as sophisticated as the average Japanese recipe. Hmm... I guess learning to
199 appreciate complex and delicate flavors takes some more time.
201 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Ryoanji/00016.jpg|Omurice = omelet + rice|maxwidth=640}}
203 As for beer, I still couldn't find one I like. The most popular ones, Asahi and Kirin,
204 are just tasteless dry lagers. All the drafts I could find taste like Asahi too. The
205 only good beers I had were at the [[http://www.deliriumcafe.jp/|Delirium Cafe]] in Tokyo,
206 where I had a delicious [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pauwel_Kwak|Kwak]] followed by a
207 cherry flavored [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kriek|Kriek]]. Too bad we had to stop at
208 just two to make sure we could find the way back to the hostel :-)
210 Now I'm looking for a place where I could taste vegetarian [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sukiyaki|sukiyaki]],
211 the favorite food of [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ataru_Moroboshi#Ataru_Moroboshi|Ataru Moroboshi]].
215 ==== Great temples everywhere ====
217 Yesterday was rainy, but it didn't stop us from biking around and visiting quite a lot of stuff:
219 * the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Ninnaji|Ninnaji temple]];
220 * the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Ryoanji|Ryoanji temple]], with its puzzling rock zen garden;
221 * the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Kinkakuji|Kinkakuji temple]] (aka golden temple);
222 * the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Nijojo_Castle|Nijojo castle]], which is actually two castles for the price of one;
223 * a quick tour of the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Kyoto_downtown|Kyoto downtown]];
224 * the [[http://www.kyotomm.com/international/english/|International Manga Museum]] was closed already. Grrr....
226 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Kinkakuji/00012.jpg|the golden temple of Kinkakuji|maxwidth=800}}
228 ==== x264 goodness ====
230 I re-encoded all videos from MJPEG, the crappy native format of my Canon camera, to x264 (aka MPEG4).
231 Firefox 3.1/3.5 still doesn't grok it with the ##video## tag, but I didn't have a
232 [[http://theora.org/|Theora]] encoder installed.
236 ==== Best hostel ever ====
238 The [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Utano_Hostel|Utano hostel]] in Kyoto would rival many
239 five star hotels I've seen. Sorry I couldn't take any photos in the [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Onsen | Onsen]].
241 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Utano_Hostel/00005.jpg|the hostel provides a traditional goan too|maxwidth=800}}
243 ==== Impressive station ====
245 The [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Shin_Kyoto|Kyoto station]] is an impressive modern building,
246 worth a visit by itself.
248 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Shin_Kyoto/00015.jpg|Anime characters by Osamu Tezuka|maxwidth=640}}
250 ==== Shinkansen tour ====
252 In a jounery report, the details of transportation are usually left out as uninteresting.
253 Except if one takes the fastest train in the world! We took the
254 [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T%C5%8Dkaid%C5%8D_Shinkansen|Tokaido Shinkansen]] line from Odawara to Kyoto,
255 riding on a [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/700_Series_Shinkansen|700-series]] train for the
256 [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hikari_%28Shinkansen%29|Hikari]] service (not the faster
257 [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nozomi_%28train%29|Nozomi]], but still very impressive).
259 The ticket cost a whopping 11240 yen per person, and I'm not even getting a
260 [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galaxy_Express_999|machine body]] with it! ;-)
262 See [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Shinkansen|the the photos]] and don't miss the
263 [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Shinkansen/00009-x264.avi|pass-through]] and the
264 [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Shinkansen/00011-x264.avi|on-board]] videos.
266 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Shinkansen/00006.jpg|Shinkansen|maxwidth=800}}
269 === April 19th - Hakone day 2 ===
271 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hakone/FujiSanBernieSan.jpg|The Fuji-san (left) with Bernie-san (right)|maxwidth=1024}}
273 We took the suggested touristic itinerary around the Hakone mountains which employs all sorts
274 of transportation means: bus, cable train, rope way, cruise boat and bus again.
276 Along the way, we could see the volcanic sulfuric vents and pools, the Ashi lake with its breathtaking
277 view of the Fuji-san, the ancient cedar avenue, the old post, the detached palace gardens and the
278 beautiful [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shinto_shrine|shinto jinja shrine]] of with its
279 [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torii|torii]] diving in the lake.
281 Of course, I took plenty of [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hakone/Trip|photos of the Hakone trip]].
283 === April 18th - Hakone ===
285 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hakone/Hostel/00008.jpg|Our japanese style room at the Senkyoro YH|maxwidth=1024}}
287 We arrived in a small town near [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hakone,_Kanagawa|Hakone]]. I'll publish photos later.
289 **Update**: [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hakone|photos of the hostel]] are now available.
292 === April 17th - Ghibli museum in Mitaka, Ginza ===
294 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/GhibliMuseum/00005.jpg|Robot from the ancient city of Laputa|maxwidth=800}}
296 The museum was actually a bit of a disappointment, but maybe just because I had my expectations so high.
297 Cameras weren't allowed inside, so I only took [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/GhibliMuseum|few photos]].
299 In the afternoon, we walked around the shiny neighborhood of [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ginza|Ginza]].
300 See the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Ginza|photos]].
302 === April 16th - Fish Market, Gardens, Tower of Tokyo, Temple ===
304 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Tsukiji_Fish_Market/00013.jpg | Tsukiji Fish Market |maxwidth=800}}
306 We had a very intense day where we visited a lot of places all around central Tokyo:
308 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Tsukiji_Fish_Market | Tsukiji Fish Market]] ([[http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3021.html|Japan Guide]])
309 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Hama_Rikyu_Gardens | Hama Rikyu Gardens]] ([[http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3025.html||Japan Guide]])
310 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Zojoji | Zojo-ji Temple]] ([[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zojoji|Wikipedia]])
311 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Tokyo_Tower | Tokyo Tower]] ([[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tokyo_Tower|Wikipedia]])
312 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Reiyukai_Temple | Reiyukai Temple]] ([[http://www.reiyukai.org/|official web site]])
313 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Imperial_Palace_Gardens | Imperial Palace Gardens]] ([[http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3017.html|Japan Guide]])
314 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Edo_Museum | Edo-Tokyo Museum]], which was already closed.
315 We'll try again when we come back to Tokyo ([[http://www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp/english | official web site]])
317 NOTE: photos still being uploaded, gomen nasai!
319 Seeing so many beautiful things at such a high frequency might make one's head spin.
320 In fact, this evening I've been dangerously close to faint in an [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Onsen | Onsen]],
321 which was really scary because I had never lost consciousness before. I had walked all day with very little
322 food and drink, which might have been part of the problem, but diving in thermal water for a long time has
323 certainly triggered it. What a [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaijin | gaijin]] who can't even take some
326 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Zojoji/1.00011.jpg | Zojo-ji temple (left), Tokyo Tower (center), Bernie (right) |maxwidth=800}}
328 === April 15th - Skyscrapers everywhere ===
330 Compared to Tokyo, every other city I had visited would seem dirty, old, boring and disorganized.
331 I can't find the words to describe my amazement walking around this amazing city full of wonders.
333 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Roppongi/TokyoMidtown/00023.jpg|Tokyo Midtown Gardenside seen from the Galleria building|maxwidth=800}}
336 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Shinjuku|Shinju-ku]] -- The district of the [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tokyo_Metropolitan_Government_Building|Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building]].
337 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Roppongi|Roppongi]] -- A rich district hosting modern art museums (Art Triangle) and night life ([[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roppongi|Wikipedia]])
338 * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Pachinko|Pachinko]] -- Popular Japanese slot machines
340 **Update**: now finished uploading the photos
342 === April 14th - Arrival in Tokyo ===
344 {{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo/Sensoji_Temple/00081.jpg|The way to the Sensoji temple in Asakusa|maxwidth=800}}
346 I couldn't resist grabbing a super-cheap round trip to japan, a place I've always wanted
347 to visit. By "always", I mean: since when I was in kindergarten, watching great series
348 like [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steel_Jeeg|SteelJeeg]] and [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazinger_Z|MazingerZ]] on TV.
349 My dad accepted to accompany me in this trip even though he wasn't particularly fond of Japan. Until now, that is!
351 The first day was simply amazing, but I'm way to tired to tell a lot about it.
352 The [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Tokyo|many photos and videos]] that I'm still uploading will hopefully serve
353 documenting this long day appropriately.
355 NOTE: if you can't watch the videos embedded in the wiki, get yourself a recent browser featuring HTML5 or
356 send me a patch adding support for old-style HTML video embedding.
360 Yes, I've neglected to update this blog for a few months. This isn't because I had nothing
361 to talk about. In fact, these months were quite intense, with a lot of notable events, including:
363 * 2009 Jan: Visited the [[Pictures/vacation/EastCoast2008|East Coast]] with Silvia
364 * 2009 Jan: Attended the [[Pictures/conf/XOCamp2009|XO Camp 2]]
365 * 2009 Feb: Attended the [[Pictures/conf/Fosdem2009|Fosdem 2009]] with a few friends from Italy and SugarLabs colleagues
367 [[Pictures/vacation/brussels_riga_stokholm_2009/Brussels | Brussels]],
368 [[Pictures/vacation/brussels_riga_stokholm_2009/Riga | Riga]] and
369 [[Pictures/vacation/brussels_riga_stokholm_2009 | Stockholm]] with Tommaso
370 * 2009 Mar: Organized a small revival of [[SystemShockBBS]] with a few original users
371 * 2009 Apr: Attended a meeting/miniconf in [[Pictures/conf/Bolzano2009|Bolzano]] with WalterBender
373 I am currently back in Florence, trying to find a way back in the US.