-== Bernie's brain backup of April 2009 ==
+== Bernie's brain dump as of April 2009 ==
-=== April 20th - Shinkansen tour ===
+=== April 29th: Back to Tokyo ===
+
+
+
+=== April 28th ===
+
+==== Guided tour ====
+
+Pictures of our day-long [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nikko/waterfalls_tour]] are now online.
+Our friendly guide, the Buddhist monk whose name I forgot, answered many of our pending questions
+about Japanese traditions and religion. Hiking through these sacred mountains and woods was an
+enjoyable experience.
+
+TODO: assemble a good video from all the scenes I took along the way
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nikko/waterfalls_tour/00038.jpg|maxwidth=800}}
+
+==== Nikko Temple Area ====
+In the afternoon, we went to visit the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nikko/world_heritage_site]].
+One would expect to grow bored of Shinto and Buddhist temples after seeing many of them
+all over Japan, but visiting the Nikko temple area was once again an extraordinary experience.
+And I could finally spot a few [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miko]]s too!
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nikko/world_heritage_site/00096.jpg|maxwidth=800}}
+
+=== April 27th ===
+
+==== Afternoon: travel to Nikko ====
+
+Nikko is in an adjacent valley east of Nagano on the Japanese alps. Unfortunately, no train lines
+and busses connect them directly, so we had to take an expensive -- yet very fast -- Shinkansen
+detour all the way down to Saitama and then up again.
+
+Once at the station, we immediately realized it was a good deal, after all.
+This mountain town overflows with temples, world heritage sites and statues of Buddah
+spread in an extremely beautiful natural environment with many great falls, ancient woods
+and hot springs where even wild monkeys take an onsen.
+
+Our [[http://www.nikkoparklodge.com/|hostel]] is ran by Zen monks and serves an unforgettable
+vegan dinner with seit. In the evening, we exchanged excited stories with a family of Italian tourists from Milan who had
+chosen to travel by car rather than by train to save money and gather access to places unreachable
+by public transport. Quite a smart idea for groups of 3-4 people who aren't afraid of driving
+on the left.
+
+Surprisingly, one of the monks speaks perfect English. He told us that he lived in California
+for some time. An explanation worthy of the plot of a very bad 007 movie, where locals
+always happen to speak English somehow, saving James from the embarrassing need of resorting
+to silly gestures in order to get his stupid Vodka Martini the way he likes it.
+
+Tomorrow, of course after our morning yoga and vegan breakfast, we're going on a day long
+guided hiking tour with the monks, which sounds really cool.
+
+**UPDATE**: ouch!
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nikko/00026.jpg|Ouch!|maxwidth=640}}
+
+==== Morning: Zenko-ji ====
+
+In the morning, we tried again to visit the [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenk%C5%8D-ji|Zenko-ji]].
+Even on a Monday, the queue was not much shorter. A nice volunteer guide advised us that
+the pilgrims where queuing just to touch a wooden pole with an inscription on it that was
+right in front of the temple, and we could skip aside if we weren't interested. So we did.
+
+We still had to queue for half an hour inside the temple to reach the secret chamber where
+we would get the rare opportunity to see the hidden Buddha, visible only once every seven
+years. Quite a lucky combination! I was impressed by the devotion of the people around me.
+The spiritual side of Japanese people does not seem to clash at all with their high-tech lifestyle.
+
+Behind the temple, we were led down a narrow staircase to a dark and twisty corridor beneath
+the temple. We had to walk in the pitch black obscurity, touching the walls in search of a
+metal key of enlightenment. I could finally get hold of the key and turn it, but the most
+enlightening part of this experience was hearing the crowd of tourists apologizing for bumping
+into each other all the time ;-)
+
+I only have outdoors [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/Zenko-ji|photos]] becuase taking
+pictures inside was strictly forbidden. A monk yelled at me just for fiddling too much with
+my camera, which was quite surprising, considering how tolerant Japanese people usually are
+towards our ignorance of their culture.
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/Zenko-ji/00186.jpg|The sacred inscription we can't read, let alone understand|maxwidth=800}}
+
+=== April 26th: Matsumoto again ===
+
+==== Back to Matsumoto ====
+
+Our [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/Shimizuya_Ryokan|ryokan in Nagano]] was simply great.
+Everything was traditional Japanese-style, including the room, the onsen and the breakfast.
+
+We tried to visit the [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenk%C5%8D-ji|Zenko-ji]] right next to our
+ryokan, but we spotted a really long queue of pilgrims at the entrance, so we went back to the
+station to visit the [[http://localhost/wiki/Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Castle|Matsumoto Castle]],
+one of Japan's top 3 castles ([[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Castle|photos]]). The adjacent
+museum was also great ([[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Museum|photos]]). On our way back, we've found
+a peculiar [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/dancing_kids|dancing show]] with cute little girls and their
+teachers.
+
+Apparently, by leaving Nagano we missed some kind of prayer or event held by Tibetan monks at the
+[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenk%C5%8D-ji|Zenko-ji]]. Too bad, it might have been a good chance
+to show some support for the Tibetan cause. Go, Tibet, Go!!
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Castle/00147.jpg|Soooo conventiinal!|maxwidth=640}}
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Castle/00108.jpg|Scary, uh?|maxwidth=640}}
+
+=== April 25th: Matsumoto ===
+
+Yesterday, we arrived on a rainy night to the mountain town of Matsumoto, where a lady with a car
+took us from the station to a cozy [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/family_hostel|family held hostell]].
+The next day was rainy, so instead of going right to the famous [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matsumoto_Castle|Matsumoto Castle]],
+we spent the best part of the day at the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Station|station]] and
+with some dumb [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Matsumoto/Shopping|shopping]].
+
+In the evening, we headed to [[http://wikitravel.org/en/Nagano|Nagano]], a city famous for the
+1998 winter olimpics and for an ancient [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenk%C5%8D-ji|buddhist temple]].
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Nagano/Shimizuya_Ryokan/00053.jpg|All sorts of accommodations come with good wi-fi, including traditional ryokans|maxwidth=800}}
+
+=== April 24th -- over 1 [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Megametre|megameter]] by train ====
+
+**UPDATE**: the report for [[blog/2009/April#kyoto-higashiyama|April 21st]] is now available!
+
+We left our comfortable hostel in Kyoto early in the morning for a second Shinkansen
+ride of 360Km, this time on the faster [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nozomi_%28train%29|Nozomi]].
+The one-way ticket was "just" 10,250円, equivalent to $105 or €80.
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hiroshima/00085.jpg|The A-Bomb peace memorial near the epicenter|maxwidth=480}}
+
+Unlike Kyoto, there aren't many sites of historic interest in Hiroshima because, quite
+unsurprisingly, every building in the city center is at most 64 years old.
+With [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hiroshima_Peace_Memorial|one notable exception]].
+Coming such a long way only to see a broken dome and a the surrounding
+[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hiroshima_Peace_Memorial_Park|park]] might seem crazy,
+but it was definitely worth it. One of the most dramatic moments of human history
+happened right here not long ago, and survivors of about my father's age can give
+their first-hand testimony with the help of black and white photographs and melted
+items from the museum. After causing so much horror and observing its consequences,
+what did we do about it? We quickly built **thousands** of bombs much more
+destructive than [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Little_Boy|Little Boy]]. Smart move.
+
+As usual, I couldn't refrain from taking [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hiroshima|a load of photos]] here too.
+These probably can't deliver the pain in the chest one gets by visiting the museum,
+but might still be a little disturbing.
+
+In the afternoon, we returned to the Hiroshima station just in time to catch the 16:01
+Shinkansen for another 690Km ride to another location which will be revealed
+in due time. Don't miss the next amazing episode of Bernie's Adventures!
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hiroshima/00079.jpg|"Peace" written with origami cranes|maxwidth=640}}
+
+Also check the story behind the [[http://www.city.hiroshima.jp/shimin/heiwa/crane.html|millions of paper cranes]]
+sent from all over the world in memory of the little Sadako.
+
+=== April 23rd -- Last day in Kyoto ===
+
+==== Morning: Arashiyama by bike ====
+
+In the morning of this sunny day, we biked to a few locations on the
+east side of Kyoto:
+
+ * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Dakakuji|Dakakuji]], an active Shingon Buddhist temple
+ * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Tenryuji|Tenryuji]], another beautiful Buddhist temple with a beautiful Zen garden, next to a bamboo forest
+ * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Monkey_Park|Monkey Park]], a place where you can closely observe and interact with [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macaque|Japanese macaques]].
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Monkey_Park/00028.jpg|see no evil, hear no evil, speak no English|maxwidth=800}}
+
+==== Evening: a city I did not like ====
+
+At last, I've found a place I actually didn't like much in Japan!
+The first impression of Osaka's central station was that it was old and
+dirty. Of course one could still eat on the floor, and coming from
+[[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Shin_Kyoto|Kyoto's station]] might
+have compromised my judgement. There was big crowd of busy people
+everywhere, and if //you// bump into someone, //they// don't apologize
+for it.
+
+Our copy of the Lonely Planet highly recommended [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D%C5%8Dtonbori|Dotonbori]]
+at night for its "Blade Runner views", so we headed there. They must have watched
+a version of the movie with bad special fx, because all I could observe in
+Dotonbori was a narrow street sided by neon signs of restaurants and pachinkos.
+Just above average, imho, and certainly not worth the time and the price of the
+train ticket. Unless you're a moth, perhaps.
+
+{{http://www.codewiz.org/wiki/Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Osaka/00003.jpg|The Osaka central station|maxwidth=800}}
+
+We granted our guide a second chance and choosing their highest rated
+restaurant in Dotombori, one specialized in [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Udon|udon]].
+There was no English menu and the only food I could order was a chest of cold
+spaghetti on a bamboo crate with no sauce but a cup of soy sauce, also cold of course,
+in which one could dip them separately. Or so I understood: the waiters were extremely
+kind but wouldn't speak English, which created even more confusion. //Dulcis in fundo//,
+the bill was much higher than usual and they wouldn't take credit cards.
+
+We rushed back to the metro to Shin-Osaka, JR train to Kyoto, local train to
+Arashiyama, where our bikes were still waiting for us for the ride back home.
+
+
+=== April 22nd ===
+
+==== Kyoto Higashiyama ====
+
+Today we walked along the east side of Kyoto, north to south:
+
+ * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Ginkakuji|Ginkakuji]] -- rock garden with a view point;
+ * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Eikando|Eikando]] ([[http://www.eikando.or.jp/English/index_eng.htm|home page]]) -- an active Buddhist temple
+ * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Chion-in|Chion-in]] -- huge temple with the largest bell in Japan
+ * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Sennen-zaka|Sennen-zaka]] -- a trendy touristic way with maikos (aka geishas);
+ * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Jishu-jinja|Jishu-jinja]] -- a temple hanging on a cliff with an impressive scaffolding;
+ * [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Fushimiinari-taisha|Fushimiinari-taisha]] -- The multi-torii tunnel. My #1 favorite shrine!!!
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Chion-in/00056.jpg|The huge bell of Chion-in|maxwidth=800}}
+
+==== Food ====
+
+Eating in japan can a challenge for a vegetarian who also happens to dislike fish and crustaceans.
+The average menu has about 5% of veggie dishes, but many restaurants in tourist areas specialize
+in traditional food such as [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sushi|sushi]] and
+[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempura|tempura]]. Imitations of Italian kitchen are close to
+perfection, of course: in Tokyo, we had perfectly reasonable spaghetti with eggplants.
+
+Even with my options severely limited, I could still find several exquisite dishes.
+I quite like soups, including [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miso_soup|miso shiru]],
+[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramen|ramen]] and others I ordered by pointing at the
+fake dish in the restaurant window without ever knowing their name.
+
+My favorite food so far is [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omurice|Omurice]]. Yeah, perhaps
+it's not as sophisticated as the average Japanese recipe. Hmm... I guess learning to
+appreciate complex and delicate flavors takes some more time.
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Ryoanji/00016.jpg|Omurice = omelet + rice|maxwidth=640}}
+
+As for beer, I still couldn't find one I like. The most popular ones, Asahi and Kirin,
+are just tasteless dry lagers. All the drafts I could find taste like Asahi too. The
+only good beers I had were at the [[http://www.deliriumcafe.jp/|Delirium Cafe]] in Tokyo,
+where I had a delicious [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pauwel_Kwak|Kwak]] followed by a
+cherry flavored [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kriek|Kriek]]. Too bad we had to stop at
+just two to make sure we could find the way back to the hostel :-)
+
+Now I'm looking for a place where I could taste vegetarian [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sukiyaki|sukiyaki]],
+the favorite food of [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ataru_Moroboshi#Ataru_Moroboshi|Ataru Moroboshi]].
+
+=== April 21st ====
+
+==== Great temples everywhere ====
+
+Yesterday was rainy, but it didn't stop us from biking around and visiting quite a lot of stuff:
+
+ * the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Ninnaji|Ninnaji temple]];
+ * the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Ryoanji|Ryoanji temple]], with its puzzling rock zen garden;
+ * the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Kinkakuji|Kinkakuji temple]] (aka golden temple);
+ * the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Nijojo_Castle|Nijojo castle]], which is actually two castles for the price of one;
+ * a quick tour of the [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Kyoto_downtown|Kyoto downtown]];
+ * the [[http://www.kyotomm.com/international/english/|International Manga Museum]] was closed already. Grrr....
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Kinkakuji/00012.jpg|the golden temple of Kinkakuji|maxwidth=800}}
+
+==== x264 goodness ====
+
+I re-encoded all videos from MJPEG, the crappy native format of my Canon camera, to x264 (aka MPEG4).
+Firefox 3.1/3.5 still doesn't grok it with the ##video## tag, but I didn't have a
+[[http://theora.org/|Theora]] encoder installed.
+
+=== April 20th ===
+
+==== Best hostel ever ====
+
+The [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Utano_Hostel|Utano hostel]] in Kyoto would rival many
+five star hotels I've seen. Sorry I couldn't take any photos in the [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Onsen | Onsen]].
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Utano_Hostel/00005.jpg|the hostel provides a traditional goan too|maxwidth=800}}
+
+==== Impressive station ====
+
+The [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Shin_Kyoto|Kyoto station]] is an impressive modern building,
+worth a visit by itself.
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Kyoto/Shin_Kyoto/00015.jpg|Anime characters by Osamu Tezuka|maxwidth=640}}
+
+==== Shinkansen tour ====
In a jounery report, the details of transportation are usually left out as uninteresting.
Except if one takes the fastest train in the world! We took the
The ticket cost a whopping 11240 yen per person, and I'm not even getting a
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galaxy_Express_999|machine body]] with it! ;-)
+See [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Shinkansen|the the photos]] and don't miss the
+[[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Shinkansen/00009-x264.avi|pass-through]] and the
+[[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Shinkansen/00011-x264.avi|on-board]] videos.
+
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Shinkansen/00006.jpg|Shinkansen|maxwidth=800}}
+
+
=== April 19th - Hakone day 2 ===
-{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hakone2/FujiSanBernieSan.jpg|The Fuji-san (left) with Bernie-san (right)|maxwidth=1024}}
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hakone/FujiSanBernieSan.jpg|The Fuji-san (left) with Bernie-san (right)|maxwidth=1024}}
We took the suggested touristic itinerary around the Hakone mountains which employs all sorts
of transportation means: bus, cable train, rope way, cruise boat and bus again.
beautiful [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shinto_shrine|shinto jinja shrine]] of with its
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torii|torii]] diving in the lake.
-Of course, I took plenty of [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hakone2|photos of the Hakone trip]].
+Of course, I took plenty of [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hakone/Trip|photos of the Hakone trip]].
=== April 18th - Hakone ===
-{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hakone/00008.jpg|Our japanese style room at the Senkyoro YH|maxwidth=1024}}
+{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hakone/Hostel/00008.jpg|Our japanese style room at the Senkyoro YH|maxwidth=1024}}
We arrived in a small town near [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hakone,_Kanagawa|Hakone]]. I'll publish photos later.
**Update**: [[Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/Hakone|photos of the hostel]] are now available.
+
=== April 17th - Ghibli museum in Mitaka, Ginza ===
{{Pictures/vacation/japan_2009/GhibliMuseum/00005.jpg|Robot from the ancient city of Laputa|maxwidth=800}}
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